Laura Biagiotti Autumn-Winter 24/25

Biagiotti reinvents its icons: knitwear, for which Laura received the nickname “Queen of Cashmere” from the New York Times; white, in its literal and metaphorical meaning of light, open-mindedness and rebirth; the link with the city of Rome.

The Biagiotti Autumn-Winter 24/25 Collection places the column at its centre, in a didactic yet at the same time symbolic representation, and celebrates women as fundamental pillars of society. Columns in architecture are almost always present in groups, supporting each other and creating a solid and long-lasting structure. It is the new “team play” suggested by Biagiotti fashion which has never claimed to impose a form, a prefabricated substance on women, but has always strived to interpret the demands of everyday life, posing itself as an ally of women through emancipations and great changes. Columns are also and above all decorative elements: an invitation to express a new creative wisdom, without losing sight of one’s own strength.

The Biagiotti column plays with an oxymoron and becomes fluid, very soft, in the silk prints where it is present and in the pleat folds: a message of lightness, in the collection and in spirit, also suggested by the set of the fashion show which is framed by metaphysical columns of toulle and light in the historic and beloved venue of the Piccolo Teatro in Milan.

The collection sublimates the icons of the Eternal City: the artistic opulence, the great cinematic beauty, the lifestyle. The column is the stylistic feature of a wardrobe that captures the essence of Rome: the lightness of the stones which, by alchemical magic, dissolve in the water of the fountains. The sweater is worked with stitches and weaves sculpted like bas-reliefs.

Prints, shapes and decorations mix in the great cultural melting pot that has always identified the city. The palette references the wide range of shades of Rome, filtered by the sun and time. The raw white of the travertine meets the golden reflections of the domes and the chiaroscuro of the architecture, which turn into a composition of beige up to the black/white contrast.

The Biagiotti White (Bianco Biagiotti) opens the show with a double-faced cashmere coat, enveloping and hieratic, with draperies that recall those of a statue. Suits with sporty appeal and braid compositions alternate with double dresses with a sculptural line; essential suits to figure-hugging dresses. The column is very light in the peplum-line printed dresses; it is embroidered with golden threads in the double-faced white cashmere coat; it is raised, almost a 3D effect, in the couture pleats on the sheath dress. Plastic volumes, embossed drapery and original proportions activate new energy and rediscover the woman in her uniqueness, which can be recognized in feminine and romantic shapes, even in work clothes. The column is both the symbol and the meaning in the jacquard knit dress which reproduces the fluted shaft and capital of an Ionic column, worn with the new mask-glasses, a reinterpretation of the iconic model of the 80s, and interpreted today with the LB monogram. The masculine line work suit, in lurex pinstripe, is softened with the knitted cape that envelops like a hug, and is inseparable from the new Monogram Gold bag, with the inlaid brand. The knitted sheath dress is embellished with sumptuous crystal embroidery, also reproduced on the sleeves of the oversized cardigan. The cashmere evolves and is transformed into suits with fringes, which arise from the intertwining of ribbons, covered with small crystals, free to dangle at the bottom to create dynamic and dancing dresses.

The column of the iconic Roma perfume by Laura Biagiotti, launched in 1988, which has become a great classic loved all over the world, transforms into a golden pendant, almost a totem, in the braided necklace.

“Fashion is a culture that unites, that creates a sense of belonging, of community. And the challenge of the “new fashion” is to combine creative intuition with wearability, the spirit with the body, the virtual with the real. Ours are clothes that transform, becoming the new chronometer of fashion, which adapt to changes in time and environment. Facing the present increasingly requires learning to look at the surrounding reality with different eyes and, together, to make visible what the mind and imagination suggest.” Lavinia Biagiotti Cigna